We repair front-load, top-load and stacked washing machines, including units installed in upstairs laundry closets.
Service call $99. Repair price quoted on site.
Twelve faults in the words customers use, with the components we check for each.
Water sitting in the drum after the cycle ends. The drain pump is the usual culprit, but a sock or a coin lodged in the pump housing produces exactly the same symptom and costs nothing to remove.
We check: drain pump, drain hose, coin trap, pressure switch, house drainThe machine fills and drains but never spins up. On front-load units the door lock assembly is first on the list, because the control will not allow a spin without a confirmed lock signal.
We check: door lock assembly, lid switch, drive belt, motor coupler, clutch, control boardLights come on but nothing happens, or nothing comes on at all. We verify supply at the outlet before condemning a board, and check the door lock, which reports open even when it feels shut.
We check: door lock, power supply, main control board, thermal fuse, start switchOn front-load machines the door boot seal is the most common source, and the leak appears at the front of the base. Pump housings and tub-to-pump hoses leak at the rear. In upstairs installations we find the source before it reaches the ceiling below.
We check: door boot seal, tub-to-pump hose, pump housing, tub seal, dispenser hoseWorn shock absorbers let the tub travel far enough to strike the cabinet. If the noise is a deep rumble that rises with speed rather than a bang, the tub bearing is going — a much bigger job.
We check: shock absorbers, suspension rods, counterweight bolts, tub bearing, levelingWe measure flow at the inlet valve first. Blocked inlet screens are common in older installations, and a closed or partially seized house shut-off accounts for more calls than people expect.
We check: water inlet valve, inlet screens, pressure switch, water level sensor, house shut-offA front-load door stays locked while the control believes there is water in the tub, so a drain fault presents as a door fault. We drain the machine, then test the lock assembly itself.
We check: door lock assembly, drain circuit, control boardThe cycle halts at the same stage every time, which tells us where to look. Stopping at drain points at the pump; stopping at heat points at the thermistor; stopping at random points suggests the control board.
We check: main control board, motor control board, thermistor, drain pump, door lockDetergent residue and standing water collect behind the door boot seal and in the pump filter. Both grow bacteria, and both are cleaned as part of the visit rather than treated with an additive.
We check: door boot seal, drain pump filter, tub deposits, drain hoseSoftener or detergent left sitting in the drawer after the cycle. Usually a blocked dispenser cup or a failed dispenser valve, occasionally low water pressure at the inlet.
We check: dispenser assembly, dispenser valve, water pressure, dispenser cupMotor runs, drum does not. On belt-driven machines the belt has usually shredded; on direct-drive top-loaders the motor coupler fails first, by design, to protect the transmission.
We check: drive belt, motor coupler, transmission or gearcase, drive motor, tub bearingThe code names a circuit, not a part. We read the stored fault, then confirm it against what the machine actually does on a test cycle before replacing anything.
We check: stored fault state, sensors, door lock, drain circuitSpecific error codes are brand-dependent and belong on the manufacturer pages, sourced from service documentation — not here.
We run a short cycle to see which stage fails. Knowing whether the machine dies at fill, drain or spin removes most of the guesswork.
Supply pressure, inlet valve, inlet screens, pump, drain hose and the water level the control thinks it has.
Belt, coupler, tub bearing, shock absorbers and suspension rods, plus whether the machine is actually level.
Control board, door lock assembly, water level sensor and thermistor, read against the stored fault state.
After the part goes in we run a cycle with a load: vibration, imbalance and slow leaks only appear under weight. Then 3-month parts, 30-day labor.
| Part | When it is the cause |
|---|---|
| Drain pump | Water left in the drum; cycle halts at the drain stage |
| Drain hose | Leak at the rear, or a blockage that mimics a failed pump |
| Water inlet valve | Will not fill, or keeps filling with the machine off |
| Door lock assembly | Will not start, will not spin, or the door stays locked |
| Lid switch assembly | Same failures on top-load machines |
| Door boot seal (bellows) | Leak at the front of the base and persistent mildew smell |
| Shock absorbers | Banging and cabinet contact during spin |
| Suspension rods | Same on top-load machines; tub swings and does not settle |
| Drive belt | Motor runs, drum does not turn |
| Motor coupler | Drum will not turn on direct-drive top-loaders; grinding noise |
| Transmission / gearcase | No agitation, no spin, or no direction change |
| Tub bearing and seal | Deep rumble on spin, leak from the center of the tub |
| Main control board | Cycles behave erratically, machine stops at random points |
| Pressure switch / water level sensor | Over- or under-filling; door stays locked with an empty tub |
| Dispenser assembly | Detergent or softener left in the drawer |
Only manufacturers that actually build washing machines. Sub-Zero, Wolf, Thermador, Viking and Gaggenau do not, so you will not find a “Thermador washer repair” link here — it would lead to a page that does not answer the query.
We also service Signature Kitchen Suite, Bosch, Asko, Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, GE, Electrolux, Speed Queen, Frigidaire, Amana, Kenmore, Haier, Hotpoint and Beko; they do not have a page of their own yet. Call (925) 592-3474 with the make and model and we will tell you straight away.
The service call is $99, covering the trip and the diagnosis. After that you get one flat price for parts and labor together, agreed before anything is opened up. We do not publish repair price ranges, because the spread on a washer is wide: the same “won’t spin” complaint can be a door lock or a bearing.
Point four is the one worth reading twice: a tub bearing job on a mid-range machine can approach half the price of a replacement, and that is the most common case where we advise against the repair. Saying so on this page means fewer visits that end in a declined quote.
The last column decides whether you are looking at one visit or two: parts we carry go in the same day.
| Symptom | What we usually replace | Carried on the van |
|---|---|---|
| Won’t drain | Drain pump, or a blocked filter and hose | Yes |
| Won’t spin | Door lock, belt or motor coupler | Yes |
| Leaking from the bottom | Door boot seal or pump housing | Per model |
| Won’t fill | Water inlet valve | Yes |
| Loud on spin | Shock absorbers, or the tub bearing | Absorbers yes, bearing no |
| Stops mid-cycle | Main control board | No, ordered per model |
As a benchmark, the National Association of Home Builders Study of Life Expectancy of Home Components (February 2007) puts a washing machine at 10 years, against 13 for a dryer — the shortest life of any major laundry appliance in that table. The study is dated and its source data is from 2005, so read it as a reference point, not an expiry date. It does match what we see: laundry pairs rarely fail together, and the washer almost always goes first.
Washing machines are the appliance where replacement wins most often, so this section is worth more attention than the usual 50% rule. The rule still holds — if the repair costs more than half a comparable new machine and the unit is near the end of its service life, replace it — but the interesting cases are the ones that sit near the line.
Front-load failures tend to arrive in a known order: the door boot seal degrades first, water works past it, and the tub bearing goes next. Replacing the boot seal while it is only weeping is inexpensive and buys years. Calling once there is a rumble on the spin cycle means the bearing is already involved, and the economics change completely. If your machine smells and the seal looks tired, that is the cheap moment to act.
We also repair dryers and washer-dryer combo units, which are usually part of the same conversation.
Multi-unit buildings and shared laundry rooms put machines under far heavier duty than a single household does, and that shows up in which parts fail first — bearings, shock absorbers and pumps rather than boards.
Also Mountain View, Redwood City, Hayward, Cupertino, Milpitas, Alameda, Pleasanton, Daly City, San Rafael, Union City, Concord and Livermore.
“It shakes so hard on spin the whole floor moves.”
Two shock absorbers were spent and the drum bearing had play. Shocks replaced as a pair, bearing and seal kit fitted, and the machine leveled on its feet. Test spin at full speed with a balanced load ran without the walk that brought us out.
“It shakes so hard on spin the whole floor moves.”
Drive belt had glazed and was slipping under load. Belt replaced, transmission checked for play, and the drive pulley cleaned. Full wash cycle run on site with a weighted load to confirm the agitation stroke was back to normal.
“It shakes so hard on spin the whole floor moves.”
Door boot seal had split at the lower fold where it collects debris. Boot replaced with the correct part for the model, clamp seated properly and drain holes cleared. Two cycles run at the machine's highest fill to confirm the seal was dry.
High-efficiency machines use a fraction of the water older ones did, so a normal dose of detergent never fully rinses away. The residue is what feeds the smell and coats the tub.
Wipe the door boot seal after the last load and leave the door ajar. Standing water in the fold of the bellows is the single cause of most front-load odor complaints.
Front-load machines have an accessible filter behind a panel at the base. Clearing it every few months prevents the “won’t drain” call entirely.
Running consistently over the rated capacity is what wears bearings and shock absorbers years early. A machine that walks across the floor is telling you the load is too heavy or badly distributed.
Check the feet with a spirit level and tighten the lock nuts. An out-of-level washer amplifies every imbalance and transfers it into the suspension.
Rubber fill hoses have a service life, and a burst hose is the most expensive failure a washer can cause — especially upstairs. Replace them on schedule and close the valves if you are away for a long stretch.
On efficiency and running costs: energy.gov.
The service call is $99, covering the trip and the diagnosis. Beyond that we do not publish price ranges, because the spread on a washer is wide: the same “won’t spin” complaint can be a door lock or a bearing. After the diagnosis you get one flat price for parts and labor together, agreed before anything is opened up. The shape of it is predictable, though: drain pumps, door locks and inlet valves are the cheap end, and a tub bearing is the expensive end, because on many models the bearing comes as an assembly with the outer tub.
Almost always, yes. A washer that fills and drains but will not spin usually needs a door lock assembly, a drive belt or a motor coupler — parts that cost a fraction of a new machine. The exception is a worn tub bearing, where the repair can approach half the price of a replacement on mid-range models.
Most jobs are done in one visit, typically 60 to 90 minutes on site. Stacked units and washers installed in a closet take longer because the machine has to be pulled out first. Tub bearing replacement is a half-day job. If a part must be ordered, we quote the work and return once it arrives.
Yes, all three, plus washer-dryer combo units. Front-load machines bring their own pattern of faults — door boot seals, drain pump filters and tub bearings. Top-load machines more often need lid switches, suspension rods and transmissions. Stacked units require separating the dryer first, which we do as part of the job.
Detergent residue and trapped water build up behind the door boot seal and in the drain pump filter, and both grow bacteria. We clean the seal and the filter as part of the repair and show you where they are. Using the HE dose rather than a full cap of detergent prevents most of it coming back.
The NAHB Study of Life Expectancy of Home Components (2007) gives 10 years for a washer, the shortest of the major laundry appliances, against 13 for a dryer. The figure is measured for first-owner use and the data behind it is from 2005, so treat it as a benchmark rather than a deadline. Load size matters more than brand: a machine run consistently over its rated capacity wears its bearings and shock absorbers years early. Commercial-grade top-load machines generally outlast feature-heavy front-load models.
Yes. Closet and second-floor installations are common here, and they change the job: the machine must be pulled forward before anything can be reached, and any leak has to be found before it reaches the ceiling below. Tell us the location when you book so the technician allows the time.
Clear a path to the machine and remove any laundry from the drum. If the washer is full of water and the door is locked, leave it — draining it is part of the diagnosis. Have the model number ready; it is on a label inside the door frame on front-load machines and under the lid on top-load machines.